La Choza, the newest restaurant to reside in the High Desert Music Hall, represents the food of owner Jorge Edison’s homeland, a Central Oregon resident who relocated from Ecuador two years ago. It also marks a departure from the bar food scene of restaurants past, with a focus on the Latin American cuisines of Ecuador, Columbia and Mexico.

The menu is illustrated with vibrant photos, categorized by the country from which each dish originates. Ecuadorian empanadas and yuca fries ($15 each) grace the menu next to the traditional dish of churrasco with barbecued skirt steak ($22), Mexican chicken and shrimp fajitas ($18) and Columbian arepas ($15).

The photo of the churrasco, shown with eggs, steak, French fries, white rice, and salad immediately caught my attention. A decade ago, I gravitated toward the dish during my study abroad experience in Ecuador. It had easily recognizable ingredients and its familiarity offered me comfort at a time when everything else around me felt foreign. I hadn’t seen it on a menu since. 

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Bold Latin flavors

Despite the temptation of the familiar, I voyaged into the unknown, ordering dishes I’d never tried yet came highly recommended: platano con camaron (plantains with shrimp, $18) and bandeja paisa ($25), a filling Colombian dish comprised of a variety of meats.

The meal began with a complimentary serving of warm tortilla chips accompanied by two cups, one filled with creamy, spicy salsa and another with refried beans. Since free bread disappeared from most restaurants long ago, I’m extra grateful for the cost-free appetizer that’s still common at Latin restaurants.

Each dish was planted with a small flag designating the country with which it was associated.

The Ecuadorian plantains with shrimp were plantain cups (also known as tostones rellenos), filled with mashed avocado and topped with shrimp, juicy and deliciously seasoned. I tried to enjoy a bite of all three components at once, but the plantains erred on the chewy side rather than light and crispy, meaning that I was either eating a bite of plantain with avocado, or shrimp, both of which were tasty independently.

In Columbia, bandeja paisa is typically one of the more expensive items on the menu due to its hefty serving. At La Choza, the protein-packed platter includes ground beef, sausage, chicharron, red beans, a fried egg, several slices of avocado, a mound of white rice and sweet, crispy fried plantains. No one who orders this dish is going home hungry.

Late night food

La Choza, which hosted a grand opening on Nov. 7, brings a taste of Latin America to Redmond in the form of satisfyingly large portion sizes and arguably the biggest margarita in town at 14 ounces, shaken with 4 ounces of tequila.

Loud Latin music, neon signs and monkey light fixtures set the tone for an authentic experience, as much is possible by ingredients attainable in Central Oregon. It also joins Redmond’s few late-night options with hours that span from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

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Details

What: La Choza

Location: 818 SW Forest Ave., Redmond

Contact: latincuisinelachoza.com, 541-527-4279

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday

Price Range: Appetizers $15-$19, soups and salads $12, entrees $15-$26